Detail of the Day – Twilled Cotton in Pink from Button-down Shirt

Detail of the Day - Twilled Cotton in Pink from Button-down Shirt

Detail of the Day – Twilled Cotton in Pink from Button-down Shirt

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This is the detail of a twill weave of cotton from a pink button-down shirt.

 

Vintage Clothing Show – Toronto Vintage Clothing and Textile Show & Sale, March 3rd, 2012

Toronto Vintage Clothing and Texile Show & Sale

Toronto Vintage Clothing and Texile Show & Sale

Kingpin’s Hideaway is very happy to participate in the 21st annual Toronto Vintage Clothing and Textile Show & Sale that raises money for cancer research with partial proceeds being donated to the Canadian Cancer Society.

The 21st Annual Toronto Vintage Clothing and Textile Show & Sale is the premier annual vintage textiles and clothing show in Toronto, featuring vintage clothing and accessories and vintage designer fashions.

The show, in the CNIB Centre at 1929 Bayview Avenue, Toronto, Ontario.

Kingpin’s Hideaway will be bringing lots of interesting and rare vintage clothing items to the show, including a German Victorian leather hat box; a rare Atelier Versace painted silk shirt; Edwardian linen detachable collars & collar studs, ‘Mad Men‘ 60’s two piece suits and even an Italian ‘Rat Pack’ tuxedo.

And in case you think mens vintage clothing will make you look old-fashioned and stodgy, check out the coolest guys in modern history, the ‘Rat Pack’ of 1960’s Vegas, Peter Lawford, Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Sammy Davis, Jr., and Joey Bishop:

60s Rat Packin Tuxedoes - Peter Lawford, Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Sammy Davis, Jr., and Joey Bishop

60s Rat Pack in Tuxedos - Peter Lawford, Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Sammy Davis, Jr., and Joey Bishop

and sporting the same debonair, sexy look – Ryan Gosling:

Ryan Gosling Dressing Like a Grownup and Rocking the Classic 'Rat Pack' Italian Tuxedo (Salvatore Ferragamo) in Slate Blue

Ryan Gosling Dressing Like a Grownup and Rocking the Classic 'Rat Pack' Italian Tuxedo (Salvatore Ferragamo) in Slate Blue

If you’re in the area stop by for a chat about what you love about men who dress like a grownup!

Tartan Comes to the Hideaway – Getting Ready for Robbie Burns Suppers

Sexy, Sexy Scottish Pipers

Sexy, Sexy Scottish Pipers

Robbie Burns Suppers are held in late January to celebrate the best of Scottish culture as exemplified in the writings of Robert ‘Robbie’ Burns.
To help the proper gentleman get in the spirit Kingpin’s Hideaway has tartaned up the place!

A Tartan For Every Mood

A Tartan For Every Mood

All you need is Tartan! (...and a decent pair of brogues)

All you need is Tartan! (...and a decent pair of brogues)

Tweed jacket with wool Kilt and Masonic Jewels

Tweed jacket with wool Kilt and Masonic Jewels

Brogues, Scotch Whiskey, Kilts and Sexy Pipers - A perfect Robbie Burns Supper!

Brogues, Scotch Whiskey, Kilts and Sexy Pipers - A perfect Robbie Burns Supper!

Gentlemen’s Cravats – The Bow Tie: A Brief History

The Pink Bow Tie from Thomas Pink

The Pink Bow Tie from Thomas Pink

The innovation of the cravat allowed for it to develop into several variations of gentlemens neck ties that became distinct types of cravats over time. One of the most familiar is the bow tie. This stylized cravat has come to define a gentleman in every aspect and is, perhaps, the single piece of apparel that defines a gentleman in every situation. Whether in use, or not, the bow tie communicates the situation a gentleman finds himself in (say British super-spy James Bond), whether tied,

Sean Connery as James Bond - Bow Tie Tied

Sean Connery as James Bond - Tied Bow Tie and Ready For Action

or untied,

Daniel Craig as James Bond - Untied Bow Tie

Daniel Craig as James Bond - Untied Bow Tie and Ready For Action

By simply undoing his bow tie a secret agent can let us know so many things. And while these gents look great keep in mind they are professional killers! Imagine what the bow tie can do for the average gentleman.

The well-dressed gentleman has been associated with the bow tie through the modern age. They have instilled confidence in our leaders, from Benjamin Disraeli to Winston Churchill in Great Britain,

Benjamin Disraeli in a Bow Tie and Looking Dandy

Benjamin Disraeli in a Bow Tie and Looking Dandy

Winston Churchill Beat Hitler (Yes, THAT Hitler) in a Bow Tie

Winston Churchill Beat Hitler (Yes, THAT Hitler) in a Bow Tie

to the United States, Abraham Lincoln and Franklin Roosevelt rocked a bow tie into the White House,

Lincoln - Republican Dandy in a Bow Tie

Lincoln - Republican Dandy in a Bow Tie

Roosevelt - Democrat Dandy in a Bow Tie

Roosevelt - Democrat Dandy in a Bow Tie

and of course one could go on and on with men of distinction who donned the bow tie with great effect. We shall leave that topic for another delightful time.

Historically the bow tie settled into the gentleman’s wardrobe in the late Victorian era. The above examples of Disraeli and Lincoln demonstrate some of the earliest forms of bow ties. You can see the connection to the earlier cravats and where the bow tie is about to emerge.

And thank goodness it did! The bow tie has become the pinnacle of fashion for the neck. The gentleman both wears the bow tie in the most formal setting as well as being the pride of the Dandy. They come in silk for the elegant touch and they come in cotton for common touch. Andre Benjamin, help me out here. First, show me the sophisticated formality of the bow tie:

Andre Benjamin Demonstrates the Formal Cool of the Bow TIe

Andre Benjamin Demonstrates the Formal Cool of the Bow TIe

Great! Now, how about the steamy swingin’ look?

Andre Benjamin Demonstrates the Swingin' Heat of the Bow TIe

Andre Benjamin Demonstrates the Swingin' Heat of the Bow TIe

Thank-you, and fabulous use of the straw hat!

Still in doubt about the awesomeness that is the simple bow tie? I refer you to this image of how regal the bow tie makes the gentleman look in the past and present:

Edwardian Gentleman with Bow Tie and Top Hat

Edwardian Gentleman with Bow Tie and Top Hat

from the dignity the bow tie bestows on the Edwardian gentleman to the suave mantle of ultimate cool for Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra.

Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra in Bow Ties and Delicate Mayhem

Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra in Bow Ties and Delicate Mayhem

Should there still be any foolish debate left, I present how the bow tie works equally well with decorating the female sex with sexy elegance,

Josephine Baker in White Bow Tie Looking Delicious

Josephine Baker in White Bow Tie Looking Delicious

Amber Heard, Naturi Naughton and Leah Renee as Playboy Club Bunny Hostesses

Amber Heard, Naturi Naughton and Leah Renee as Playboy Club Bunny Hostesses

And they even work their magic untied on the opposite sex, perhaps even better than when on a gentleman,

Kate Moss Looking Sexy with an Untied Bow Tie

Kate Moss Looking Sexy with an Untied Bow Tie

Thank-you Kate Moss (and I still need that tie back. Seriously.).

There you have a brief introduction to the bow tie and why you should start wearing them. Stay tuned for instructions on how to tie your own…

Gentlemen’s Fabrics 101 – Wool

Wool is the earliest fabric Europeans clothed themselves with. It is a natural fibre that is collected from domesticated sheep and goats, as well as other animals. For our purposes here, wool includes the hairs sheared, plucked or gathered from various animals.

Swiss Cashmere Goats

Swiss Cashmere Goats

A short survey of the animals that supply wool and the names given each type are listed:

While some of these wool fibres are quite exotic, and hence very expensive, others are in common use in the production of gentlemenswear. The wool from sheep is the primary source of the wool  used to make suits, blazers and trousers. Some of the more expensive wool is used to make accessories likes scarves, gloves and hats, although the cashmere blazer is a fantastic addition to any gentleman’s wardrobe!

Thom Browne Striped Merino Blazer

Thom Browne Striped Merino Blazer

The process of turning raw animal fibres into usable wool threads is fairly standard across the many animals the produce usable hair fibres. The first step is to gather the hair through either shearing, combing or plucking. After the hair is gathered, and depending on the source animal, it needs to be cleaned in a process called scouring. The steps in the scouring range from simple hot water to detergent and other chemicals depending on the source animal and the intended use of the wool. Many types of wool have high levels of oils, sometimes called wool wax, which has to be removed, and hopefully recovered, as it is a valuable resource of its own, producing lanolin.

Vicuña Mens Scarf

Vicuña Mens Scarf

The scoured wool is then carded and then sometimes combed. The final product is then either spun into yarn or made into felt. For our purposes, the yarn  is used to make garments and the felt is used for hats. Virgin wool is wool created from the first spinning of the fibres. If the wool was also combed, the fibres have been straightened to the point of making the yarn quite strong and smooth.

The different kinds of wool fabric created from the different breeds and species are wide ranging in weight, texture and tactility. These fabrics form the foundation of gentlemen’s fashion, from elegant suits and tuxedos to coats, scarves and fedoras. But more on that later…

Article first published as Fabrics For Gentlemen 101 – Wool on Technorati.