Category Archives: Style Icon

Gentlemen’s Cravats – The Necktie: A Brief History

Posted by Kingpin in British, English, History, Men, Men of Style, Photos, Style Icon, Ties and tagged with , , , , , , , , ,
The Classic Necktie

The Classic Necktie

The story of the necktie that has come to dominate gentleman’s neck wear begins with the popularity of the cravat in the 19th century. In the late Victorian period the industrial revolution came into full production. There was a great need for more practical neck wear than the evermore detailed ways of tying the untamed silks of the basic cravat. Enter the knot named the ‘four-in-hand’ that enabled the cravat to be tied quickly and securely so that it could remain in place and look good the entire work day. With the help of the British monarchy we can explore the necktie’s development.

King George V with Four-in-Hand Knotted Silk Tie

King George V with Four-in-Hand Knotted Silk Tie

This knot created a longer, more elegant shape that allowed the silk to dimple and emphasize the gloss of the fabric. This allowed the necktie to be used in a very formal outfit., as may be seen both in George V’s portrait above and his father, Edward VII below,

Colour autochrome photograph of King Edward VII in Scotland sporting a four-in-hand tied necktie

Colour autochrome photograph of King Edward VII in Scotland sporting a four-in-hand tied necktie

where he has a more casual outfit (most likely for grouse hunting). His grandson, Edward VIII took the four-in-hand to the fully casual outfit,

Edward VIII, as Prince of Wales, casually wearing a necktie tied in a four-in-hand

Edward VIII, as Prince of Wales, casually wearing a necktie tied in a four-in-hand

and it became the standard in a gentleman’s outfit replacing the previous, looser-shaped cravats.

It was Edward’s grandfather, whose love of a fat four-in-hand knot, lead to the other popular necktie knot being developed, the Windsor. Edward VII, son of Queen Victoria, was a style icon in his own right. The extra wide manner of his necktie’s design in using thick fabric so that his four-in-hand knot would be quite wide at the collar, as this portrait from the time of his coronation shows,

Edward VII with his wide knotted necktie

Edward VII with his wide knotted necktie

Unable to afford bespoke ties, the gentlemen trying to emulate Edward VII’s style developed the Windsor knot, although the source for this name is not clear. What is clear is that his sartorial grandson, Edward VIII most likely never sported a Windsor knot, using the trusted four-in-hand to great effect to the ends of his days. But more on the different types of necktie knots (and what they say about the man wearing them) in a future post.

Edward VIII Sporting the Four-In-Hand with a Thick Necktie

Edward VIII Sporting the Four-In-Hand with a Thick Necktie

Throughout the 20th century and into the 21st, the necktie has become the dominant form of cravat.

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Church & Co. (Church’s) and Gentlemens Shoes

Posted by Kingpin in Bespoke, Boots, British, Designers, English, Footwear, Leather, Men, Shoes, Style Icon and tagged with , , , , , , , ,

Very few products distinguish themselves as the ‘gold standard‘ of their market. Even among these, the brand is often purchased by another company, who trade on their item’s reputation, all the while shaving away its quality in the name of profit until he reputation itself is also ruined. In mens footwear, there is one company that I stand by without hesitation as the gold standard of their field – Church’s.

Canvas & Leather Spectator Shoes by Church's

Canvas & Leather Oxford Spectator Shoes by Church's

To own a pair of Church’s is to own more than an excellent pair of handmade leather shoes. You are part of a tradition in mens footwear that dates back to 1675, with the family of Thomas Church officially founding Church & Company with his sons in Northampton, England.

Black Leather Brogued Wingtip Derby's 'The Grafton' by Church's

Black Leather 'Brogued' Wingtip Derby 'The Grafton' by Church's

It was Church’s that created the ‘left’ and ‘right’ shaped shoe in 1881 (for which they were awarded a Gold Medal at the 1884 International Exhibitions in the Crystal Palace, London) and established itself as the premier English shoemaker when Queen Elizabeth II awarded them the prestigious Queen’s Award for Exports in the Award’s inaugural year – 1966.

Black Leather Wingtip Oxford Shoes by Church's

Black Leather Wingtip Oxford Shoes by Church's, Ladder-laced

In case you think all this royal attention makes Church’s too stuffy, consider that they were the shoe of choice for James Bond in the films The World is Not Enough, Tomorrow Never Dies (black leather Monk shoes – the Presley) and Golden Eye (brown leather brogues) and this was the most sartorial Bond, played by Pierce Brosnan. Not tough enough for you? Daniel Craig wore both a pair of Church’s chukka boots (in dark brown suede with a rubber sole) and Church’s Oxfords (in black leather with a half cap) in Quantum of Solace. So there.

James Bond, Church's Shoes and a Gorgeous Lady

James Bond, Church's Shoes and a Gorgeous Lady

Close-up of James Bond Church's Shoes

Close-up of James Bond Church's Shoes

And in case you were wondering, Church’s is able to refurbish Mr. Bond’s Oxford’s to almost new, as they did for the editor-in-chief of Wallpaper magazine. His Church’s brogues are over 20 years-old!

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The Spirituality of Dress and The Dandy

Posted by Kingpin in Designers, English, French, Men, Men of Style, Philosophy, Photos, Politics, Style Icon and tagged with , , , , , , , , ,

Our clothes are too much a part of us for most of us ever to be entirely indifferent to their condition:  it is as though the fabric were indeed a natural extension of the body, or even of the soul.  ~Quentin Bell

Quentin Bell, Historian and Dandy

Quentin Bell, Historian and Dandy

It is easy for us to limit clothing and dress to a rudimentary and perfunctory role in our present society, given our general acceptance of consumerism for consumptions sake. “I want it now and I want it cheap!” we cry and in turn, so goes our soul. The Dandy is oft maligned as a popinjay; something that is mere flash and distraction. I would argue that the Dandy is instead the canary of the collective mineshaft of humanity, bearing the inner desires and hopes literally upon his sleeve. The stoic Greek philosopher Epictetus wrote of this connection,

Know, first, who you are; and then adorn yourself accordingly.

In truly knowing himself a man becomes a gentleman and presents himself to the world, to intimates and strangers alike, in the manner of dress that signals that he has attained this enlightenment of self. As Coco Chanel put it,

Adornment is never anything except a reflection of the heart.

Coco Chanel, Fabulous Woman and Friend of the Dandy

Coco Chanel, Fabulous Woman and Friend of the Dandy

As you begin, or indeed continue, your inner journey of style and soul you must also brave your unexamined consumption of the mediocre through conscious and conscientious dress. To steel yourself let the words of writer Princess Elizabeth Bibesco reverberate in your soul,

You don’t have to signal a social conscience by looking like a frump.  Lace knickers won’t hasten the holocaust, you can ban the bomb in a feather boa just as well as without, and a mild interest in the length of hemlines doesn’t necessarily disqualify you from reading Das Kapital and agreeing with every word.

Princess Elizabeth Bibesco, Herald of the Dandy

Princess Elizabeth Bibesco, Herald of the Dandy


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Article first published as The Spirituality of Dress and The Dandy on Technorati.

Gentlemen’s Fabrics 101 – Linen

Posted by Kingpin in Fabrics, Men, Men of Style, Photos, Style Icon, Suits and tagged with , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Cary Grant in Linen Jacket and Trousers

Cary Grant in Linen Jacket and Trousers

Just as ancient China lays claim to the production of silk, ancient Egypt brought the world linen. Linen is the fabric made from the fibre of the plant flax, Linum usitatissimum. Egyptians are recorded as having linen production as far back as 4 000 years and archeologists have discovered linen fragments near human encampments from 10 000 years ago, with some suspected dyed flax fibres being used for clothing as far back as 38 000 years ago.

The Flax Plant - Linum usitatissimum

The Flax Plant - Linum usitatissimum

The process to produce usable fibres from flax to spin into yarn and thread is labour intensive, hence the higher price for linen garments. The flax seeds must first be removed from the plant in a process called rippling. the stacks must then have the cellulose on the plant separated from the plant’s fibres through retting, where bacteria dissolve the unneeded cellulose. Next the flax stacks are scutched which removes all the woody material, as well as the oil, the source of linseed oil. Once scutched, heckling, through the use of the heckling comb, separates the short fibres from the long, where they can then be spun into yarn and thread and then woven into linen. Whew!

Cary Grant Traveling in a Double-breasted Linen Suit

Cary Grant Traveling in a Double-breasted Linen Suit

And taking our cue from style icon Cary Grant, linen is an ideal fabric for attaining Kingpin chic. Will over at The Houndstooth Kid extols the virtues of wearing linen. His most convincing point? It travels well. Very well.

It wrinkles. It’s supposed to wrinkle. A linen suit or jacket without wrinkles is like a car without wheels: they just have to be there for it to work. And since we sit for long periods of time when we travel, our clothes tend to wrinkle even if they aren’t supposed to.

Linen shirts, trousers, jackets suits and shorts are ideal for keeping your cool in the coming summer heat, and looking damn fine doing so!

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Article first published as Summer’s Coming, Where’s Your Linen? on Technorati.

Men of Style – Edward Kennedy “Duke” Ellington

Posted by Kingpin in American, Men, Men of Style, Photos, Style Icon and tagged with , , , , , , , ,
Duke Ellington with an Alcazar Showgirl, Paris 1969

Duke Ellington with an Alcazar Showgirl, Paris 1969

“You’ve got to find some way of saying it without saying it” ~ Duke Ellington

Edward Kennedy “Duke” Ellington (April 29, 1899 – May 24, 1974) was an American composer, pianist, and big band leader. Ellington wrote over 1,000 compositions. In the words of Bob Blumenthal of The Boston Globe “In the century since his birth, there has been no greater composer, American or otherwise, than Edward Kennedy “Duke” Ellington.  Ellington defined more than music, more than jazz. He defined cool. He was able to take the brash male need to show-off, of bravado, and distill it down into the visual equivalent of swinging.

Duke Ellington in Large Check Sports Coat with Conga Accessory

Duke Ellington in Large Check Sports Coat with Conga Accessory

A dear friend was expressing a need for more jazz in her life, and that tipped me to think of the greats, and then of course to a great that defines not only incredible jazz, but incredible style. Ellington brought elegance to both his compositions and his stage presence, and we would do well to learn his style lessons. Right from the start Ellington personified dignity and grace. Check his music and dress in this colour video recording of Satin Doll:

Portrait of Duke Ellington in Top Hat and White Tie

Portrait of Duke Ellington in Top Hat and White Tie

Ellington would walk into a room, and simultaneously set the bar higher for both dress and cool. He proved that you cannot overdress for an occasion when dressing with distinction; you become the standard. Ellington was the standard his entire working life.

Duke Ellington in French Cuff

Duke Ellington in French Cuff

A proper shirt and a proper jacket with stylish neckwear. Simple, yet when Ellington put them together they become a lyrical poem. And these were his work clothes. Beats the Hell out of casual Fridays.

Duke Ellington in His Work Clothes

Duke Ellington in His Work Clothes

Indeed, if you have ever doubted that elegant clothing can shape your behaviour look at these images of Ellington while listening to his music. The elegance and sophistication of his dress reflect back to us in his jazz. Dress better, create better.

Duke Ellington Swinging a Charcoal Blue Suit

Duke Ellington Swinging a Charcoal Blue Suit

An excellent way to begin putting an outfit together involves listening to Ellington and letting the jazz move you. Improvise in elegance to take hold of your inner Kingpin.

Duke Ellington As a Rhapsody in Blue

Duke Ellington As a Rhapsody in Blue