Handkerchiefs 101 – The Pocket Square

The Pocket Square - A Gentleman's Essential

The Pocket Square - A Gentleman's Essential

Most likely invented by Richard II, the last Plantagenet King of England, the handkerchief has become one of the ‘must haves’ for any fully dressed gentleman. Also called a pocket square, the handkerchief started as a small, thin piece of cloth hemmed at the edges and carried on the person to use for all many of personal needs. They are typically made from natural fibres like cotton, linen and silk, as these fabrics are gentle on the nose and cheek. I can only imagine the trouble you’d get into with an scratchy and non-absorbent wool pocket square, or a ticklish fuzzy Angora pocket square!

Being fully dressed with a pocket square

Being fully dressed with a pocket square

The pocket square evolved from the handkerchief keep in a sleeve or trouser pocket in the 18th century to the smaller pocket square kept in a man’s jacket pocket at the beginning of the 20th century. It wasn’t long before they also became part of a gentleman’s fashion statement as well. Edward VIII demonstrates the ability for the pocket square to add both polish and ease to an outfit (Note the Jacquard on the pocket square does not match his tie!) :

Edward VIII Sporting a Silk Pocket Square

Edward VIII Sporting a Silk Pocket Square

The pocket square is an accessory for a multitude of looks for the active gentleman. I’ve provided a few examples of how this works to create either a serious or jaunty presence:

Business Pocket Square

Mad Men Roger and Don are all business with their pocket squares

Mad Men Roger and Don are all business with their pocket squares

Jaunty Pocket Square

Fred Astaire uses his pocket square to look jaunty

Fred Astaire uses his pocket square to look jaunty

Sexy Pocket Square

Ryan Gosling sports a pocket square to up his sexy quotient
Ryan Gosling sports a pocket square to up his sexy quotient

Don’t F*ck with Me Pocket Square

 Winston Churchill sets his 'Don't f*ck with me' look with the casual use of a plain pocket square

Winston Churchill sets his 'Don't f*ck with me' look with the casual use of a plain pocket square

Suave Pocket Square

Gary Cooper does suave with a pocket square

Gary Cooper does suave with a pocket square

Formal Pocket Square

Humphrey Bogart styles a formal portrait with a pocket square

Humphrey Bogart styles formal with a pocket square

The choice of pocket square decoration, textile and fold provides a wide spectrum of styles to an outfit. More on that soon! The most important aspect of a pocket square for a gentleman is to insure you do not veer into foppishness when wearing one. The key is to put utility before all else. Keep in mind that the pocket square is functional beyond looking pretty and you’ll avoid the decorative trap.

Tartan Comes to the Hideaway – Getting Ready for Robbie Burns Suppers

Sexy, Sexy Scottish Pipers

Sexy, Sexy Scottish Pipers

Robbie Burns Suppers are held in late January to celebrate the best of Scottish culture as exemplified in the writings of Robert ‘Robbie’ Burns.
To help the proper gentleman get in the spirit Kingpin’s Hideaway has tartaned up the place!

A Tartan For Every Mood

A Tartan For Every Mood

All you need is Tartan! (...and a decent pair of brogues)

All you need is Tartan! (...and a decent pair of brogues)

Tweed jacket with wool Kilt and Masonic Jewels

Tweed jacket with wool Kilt and Masonic Jewels

Brogues, Scotch Whiskey, Kilts and Sexy Pipers - A perfect Robbie Burns Supper!

Brogues, Scotch Whiskey, Kilts and Sexy Pipers - A perfect Robbie Burns Supper!

Style Site of Note – The Lost Art of Being a Modern Gentleman

James Cagney in Bow Tie and Bowler Hat

James Cagney wants YOU to dress for the occasion

Today we spark a revolution.

So, Gentlemen, rise up. The Douchebag is winning and he takes many forms (aside from the one seen on the Human Planet).

The trouble with being a Gentleman is that it seems like merely a wardrobe choice , but it’s so much more than just knowing how to tie a tie. Anyone can cram himself into a well-cut suit, but what defines a true gentleman is ownership, not only confidence, but a true command of oneself. Confidence implies victory over insecurity. Ownership implies total acceptance of self.

So says Douglas Nyback who designed an ongoing series of articles in Quip Magazine to examine in turn the various elements that affect a gentleman’s life. Key among them is the manner of his dress. As Nyback puts it,

Wearing a jacket is not getting “dressed up”; it’s getting dressed.  You’ll know I’m dressed up because I’ll be wearing a tuxedo, we’ll be at a ball and if you’re wearing a worn sweater with a jacket two sizes too big, you’ll be kicked out for looking like the guy who got lost on his way to McDonalds.

Gentleman in Smoking Jacket Reading

Just relaxing? There is proper attire to make that an event too.

What I like is the specific point that Nyback makes about how dress is always tailored to what the gentleman is intending to do. The outfit is begat by the situation into which the gentleman propels himself, or as Nyback writes,

Wardrobe is determined by event.  People should get dressed up for the theatre and yes, people do wear tuxedos to formal events because the situation requests, nay, demands it.

Lauren Bacall, Marilyn Monroe and Humphrey Bogart in a Tuxedo

Humphrey Bogart wears a tuxedo and gets enough arm candy for each french-cuffed arm.

I think all I might add is, “Amen.”

Kingpin’s Hideaway: Dress Like a Man, It’s Better – Sociéte Perrier Review

Societe Perrier Review of Kingpin's Hideaway Mens Fashion

Societe Perrier Reviews Kingpin's Hideaway and the New Look for Mens Fashion

It’s not about dressing like Draper (as in Don, y’know?) It’s about being dapper. Accoutrements are key, and being noticed by means of standing out as opposed to sticking out is where this rising trend is heading.

So says Adam Mazerall’s latest article for Sociéte Perrier, an online guide to “the global enthusiast’s source for engaging content and great events. Curating the best in nightlife, art, music, fashion, travel, mixology and cocktail culture.” Mazerall describes the intention of the Hideaway very well,

For Hagey, dressing the kingpin way is about confidence, masculinity, and conscientious dressing. Kingpin attire is essentially gentlemenswear taken to the next level. Sure, you have your suit, your shoes, your overcoat, but what can you do with a fanciful tie, or a vintage shirt whose pattern can seem otherworldly in today’s GQ-styled world, or a set of cufflinks that hearken back to the ‘20s, or a pair of shoes that conjure thoughts of Prohibition era…? This is where the kingpin is born. Having a sort of mise en place philosophy to one’s wardrobe.

The full article may be found here:

Kingpin’s Hideaway: Dress Like a Man, It’s Better

Vintage-style Pinup Peek-a-boo Ties at Kingpin's Hideaway

Vintage-style Pin-up Peek-a-boo Ties at Kingpin's Hideaway

The Macaroni, The Dandy and Gender Identity

A short explanation before we get started: the term macaroni used in this article is not referring to the Italian pasta, but is related to it. Macaroni, when used in mens fashions, refers to a mid-18th century trend where young men started dressing in the most epicene (androgynous, effeminate) and affected style. They were the metrosexuals of their day. You can find many good examples in fashion plates from that period:

The Macaroni Painter, or Billy Dimple Sitting for his Picture

"The Macaroni Painter, or Billy Dimple Sitting for his Picture"

This trend started with young British aristocrats returning from the Grand Tour (a subject for another time) and the look got its name from the recent excitement around Italian pasta, specifically macaroni. All things uber-contemporary were called macaroni (think Paris Hilton‘s abuse of the word, ‘hot’ and you get the picture.)

The Polite Macaroni presenting a Nosegay to Miss Blossom

"The Polite Macaroni presenting a Nosegay to Miss Blossom" - Delicate Flowers from a Delicate Flower

This trend of dressing more and more garish and adopting various female identified clothing styles increased in popularity among the very rich. And it created a style among wealthy young men that shared the delicate sensibility of women’s fashion of the period.

The Macaroni - The Height of Androgenous Mens Fashion

The Macaroni - The Height of Androgynous Mens Fashion, Tee Hee Hee!

It was the arrival of Mr. Beau Brummel‘s fashion sense that this ridiculous manner of male dress changed. In appreciation I would whole-heartedly support a movement for the canonization of Brummel in the Church of England. Or at least recognition with his own day of prayer (He is most certainly my patron saint of Male Dressing.)

Beau Brummel - Patron Saint of Male Dress

Beau Brummel - Patron Saint of Male Dress

The artifice of the macaroni was an attempt by aristocratic young men (and young men who aspired to be aristocrats) of the time to prove their worldliness in order to affirm their right to the luxury their station provided them. Yet, this only served to demonstrate their disconnection with the wider world; of the coming social and political changes that were about to shatter the aristocratic structure the macaroni so desperately wished to display in their foppish dress.

In counterpoint to this Beau Brummel embraced a masculine look. Gone were the breeches, powdered wigs and all too much lace replaced with trousers, washed flowing hair and silk cravats. The rise of the Dandy was a movement of the middle-class gentleman expressing their masculinity and their disdain for the ridiculous style of upper classes in dress. They hadn’t the money or privilege, but the Dandy had his sense of style with which to shame the silly macaronies.

I make this distinction because all too often a man who dresses well is carelessly refered to as a fop, or as a dandy with the connotation of the fop. This is a terrible misuse of language and blurs the trend I see emerging. The modern Dandy is the masculine answer to the prevalence of the metrosexual look among men.

Men, instead of dressing in a style that teenagers consider ‘cool’  well into your adult years or engaging in the drab and genderless metrosexual look I invite you embrace the Dandy. You’ll thank me for it.

How Not to Dress

Metrosexual? - No. Regressed Man Child? - No.

Steve McQueen Dressing Like a Grown Man

The Cultured Dandy - A Most Hearty Yes! (Thanks again, Mr. McQueen!)