Kingpin Chic at Kingpin Chic Vintage Mens Clothing at Wychwood Barns Gadsden’s Toronto Vintage Clothing Show

Kingpin Chic Vintage Mens Clothing at Wychwood Barns Gadsden’s Toronto Vintage Clothing Show

Kingpin Chic Mens Clothing at Wychwood Barns Gadsden’s Toronto Vintage Clothing Show

By special request Kingpin Chic will be opening up our collection of fine gentleman’s apparel one day only on Sunday, October 23, 2011 at the Gadsden’s Toronto Vintage Clothing Show Wychwood Barns located at 601 Christie Street Toronto, Ontario. The hours for the show are 11 am – 4:00 pm and admission for adults is $8.00, and for children 12 and under there is no charge!

Store of Note – The Hatter, Toronto

Without a doubt a good hat is worth proper care. Assuming you’ve matured from wearing a baseball cap (unless you are a baseball player or S.W.A.T. team member and must wear them for work purposes) and you have graduated from the mass-produced, vacuum formed fedoras, you posses at least one proper felt hat. This may include a fedora, a Homburg or Trilby. Congratulations! A proper hat is mandatory for a gentleman if he is intent on attaining the social status he so richly deserves. How else can you tip your hat in salutation if you are not wearing one?

Cartoon Boys Tip Hat to Cute Cartoon Girl

It's Never to Early to Practice Proper Hat Etiquette

I will go into more depth on the various types of head wear available to a gentleman of style in future posts. I will also be sure to detail the care instructions and routine a gentleman should perfect to maintain his hats. I would like to point out the one full service  hat cleaner in Toronto, and possibly all of Canada, to you so you may keep, or restore, your hat(s) to their former glory – The Hatter.

The Hatter - Full Gentlemens Hat Service in Toronto

The Hatter - Full Gentlemens Hat Service in Toronto

The Hatter, at 1794 Avenue Road in Toronto, not only offers special cleaning of mens hats, they also have a very extensive collection of wood hat blocks. It is their ability to re-block your hat that sets The Hatter apart from any other mens hat store I’ve encountered in Canada. George Catleugh started the company when he was only 15, a way back in 1936. The store is still a family operation, now run by his first-born son, George Catleugh Jr.

Inside The Hatter, Toronto

Inside The Hatter, Toronto

Their cleaning and blocking service is well worth the $15 to $30 expense, but be fore-warned! The wide selection of hats they have in stock is bound to catch your eye while you drop off your chapeau and it will require all of your will power to resist purchasing at least one of them. Your best bet is to bring along a few dollars and expand your hat wardrobe.

Gentlemen’s Fabrics 101 – Wool

Wool is the earliest fabric Europeans clothed themselves with. It is a natural fibre that is collected from domesticated sheep and goats, as well as other animals. For our purposes here, wool includes the hairs sheared, plucked or gathered from various animals.

Swiss Cashmere Goats

Swiss Cashmere Goats

A short survey of the animals that supply wool and the names given each type are listed:

While some of these wool fibres are quite exotic, and hence very expensive, others are in common use in the production of gentlemenswear. The wool from sheep is the primary source of the wool  used to make suits, blazers and trousers. Some of the more expensive wool is used to make accessories likes scarves, gloves and hats, although the cashmere blazer is a fantastic addition to any gentleman’s wardrobe!

Thom Browne Striped Merino Blazer

Thom Browne Striped Merino Blazer

The process of turning raw animal fibres into usable wool threads is fairly standard across the many animals the produce usable hair fibres. The first step is to gather the hair through either shearing, combing or plucking. After the hair is gathered, and depending on the source animal, it needs to be cleaned in a process called scouring. The steps in the scouring range from simple hot water to detergent and other chemicals depending on the source animal and the intended use of the wool. Many types of wool have high levels of oils, sometimes called wool wax, which has to be removed, and hopefully recovered, as it is a valuable resource of its own, producing lanolin.

Vicuña Mens Scarf

Vicuña Mens Scarf

The scoured wool is then carded and then sometimes combed. The final product is then either spun into yarn or made into felt. For our purposes, the yarn  is used to make garments and the felt is used for hats. Virgin wool is wool created from the first spinning of the fibres. If the wool was also combed, the fibres have been straightened to the point of making the yarn quite strong and smooth.

The different kinds of wool fabric created from the different breeds and species are wide ranging in weight, texture and tactility. These fabrics form the foundation of gentlemen’s fashion, from elegant suits and tuxedos to coats, scarves and fedoras. But more on that later…

Article first published as Fabrics For Gentlemen 101 – Wool on Technorati.

Gentlemen’s Fabrics 101 – Silks

Silk – the word itself mimics the fabric it names as you say it flowing softly through your lips only catching slightly at the end.

Assorted Giorgio Armani Silk Ties and Neckties

Assorted Giorgio Armani Silk Ties and Neckties

Silk comes from the harvested cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry tree moth, Bombyx mori, and in domesticated fashion on silk farms in a practice called sericulture. Bombyx mori is a completely domesticated moth and it is entirely dependent on humans for its reproduction and does not occur naturally in the wild. If it was not for human need of silk, this creature would cease to exist.

The Silk Moth Bombyx mori from Wikipedia

The Silk Moth Bombyx mori

Silk farmers practiced sericulture in China since the Yangshao period, dating back as far as much as 5 000 years BCE. The top producers of silk cocoons are China, India, Uzbekistan, and Brazil, with silk production also occurring in many other countries. The cocoons are then unraveled to produce a single, long thread which is then woven into the fabric known as silk, which may then be dyed and made into clothing. Silk has industrial uses as well, but they do not interest us here.

Alexander McQueen Mens Spotlight Jacket in Painted Silk

Alexander McQueen Mens Spotlight Jacket in Painted Silk

Since ancient times men have worn silk garments. Aileen Reibeiro details how Rome forbid men to wear silk clothing through their sumptuary laws in her book Dress and Morality. What a shock modern Italian designers like Versace, Gucci, Prada and Armani, among others, would have had when confronted with such restrictions! It is also considered haram (forbidden) for men to wear silk under the teachings of conservative Islam, yet halal (allowed) for women. The Kingpin aesthetic is not so restrictive.

The history of silk being a luxury fabric as well as being painted and dyed have associated flair and colour with it. And so should the gentleman considering adding silk to his wardrobe. Silk is a material that can easily have you veer into a look that is neither flattering or gentlemanly. However, in the Kingpin aesthetic you can use silk effectively to present yourself as a man who enjoys the finer things and is bold enough to show it. Besides ties, I find silks to wear well in the heat, and in more tropical climates, and even the beach or when boating. Be careful not to over do it! Refrain from complete silk outfits! Balance a silk shirt with linen trousers for a more grounded look. Wear the level of vibrant colour you feel confident in wearing and no more, else you should quickly resemble a lost clown instead of  romantic figure! It should go without saying that the best silk piece a gentleman can acquire is a top rate silk top hat.

Victorian Gentleman with Silk Top Hat and Waistcoat and Tie

Victorian Gentleman with Silk Top Hat and Waistcoat and Tie

Style Site of Note – A Suitable Wardrobe

Will Boehlke is the author of a men’s style blog that provides gentlemen with the why’s and wherefore of classic men’s style. A Suitable Wardrobe has been covering off the various elements of classic style since 2006 in a blog that is a rich resource for those of us wanting to know the best way to polish Cordovan shoes, (don’t forget the deer bone!) or the need for a man as he matures to move from belted to braced trousers (stop hiking your trousers up all day!) Will even notes some men that have good style, like André Churchwell.

A Man of Style - André Churchwell

A Man of Style - André Churchwell

And for those of you that can afford bespoke shoes and suits (and Will would argue you can’t afford not to!) you should visit his online store.