The Shirt 101 – The Basics and How to Measure Yours

Vintage Brooks Brothers Shirts and Collars from the 20's

Vintage Brooks Brothers Shirts and Collars from the 1920's

The base of every gentleman’s outfit is his shirt. They may be made of cotton, linen, silk, wool, or other textiles. A shirt maybe worn for casual pursuits or the most formal ones.

The basic shirt is comprised of the collar, sleeves, cuffs and yoke. The yoke and the sleeves have plackets to help with the closures which may be buttons, studs or cufflinks. More on all those in future posts…

The Parts of a Shirt

The Parts of a Shirt

A shirt may have short sleeves, for wear in tropical or warm summer climates. It may also be of finely woven cotton pressed and starched for ‘white tie‘ occassions. The various elements of the shirt may be changed to give such a wide variety that it has become the staple of gentlemen’s dress.

* – Please note that an undershirt is not a shirt. A “T-shirt” is of the most extreme casual dress and one that should be the rare exception to a gentleman’s dress and not the rule!

The most important element of any shirt in a gentleman’s wardrobe is that is fit him properly. Each fellow has there own desired fit for their ideal shirt and you need to know how to measure one so you can find them more easily.

For your viewing pleasure and sartorial edification:

Gentlemen’s Cravats – The Bow Tie: A Brief History

The Pink Bow Tie from Thomas Pink

The Pink Bow Tie from Thomas Pink

The innovation of the cravat allowed for it to develop into several variations of gentlemens neck ties that became distinct types of cravats over time. One of the most familiar is the bow tie. This stylized cravat has come to define a gentleman in every aspect and is, perhaps, the single piece of apparel that defines a gentleman in every situation. Whether in use, or not, the bow tie communicates the situation a gentleman finds himself in (say British super-spy James Bond), whether tied,

Sean Connery as James Bond - Bow Tie Tied

Sean Connery as James Bond - Tied Bow Tie and Ready For Action

or untied,

Daniel Craig as James Bond - Untied Bow Tie

Daniel Craig as James Bond - Untied Bow Tie and Ready For Action

By simply undoing his bow tie a secret agent can let us know so many things. And while these gents look great keep in mind they are professional killers! Imagine what the bow tie can do for the average gentleman.

The well-dressed gentleman has been associated with the bow tie through the modern age. They have instilled confidence in our leaders, from Benjamin Disraeli to Winston Churchill in Great Britain,

Benjamin Disraeli in a Bow Tie and Looking Dandy

Benjamin Disraeli in a Bow Tie and Looking Dandy

Winston Churchill Beat Hitler (Yes, THAT Hitler) in a Bow Tie

Winston Churchill Beat Hitler (Yes, THAT Hitler) in a Bow Tie

to the United States, Abraham Lincoln and Franklin Roosevelt rocked a bow tie into the White House,

Lincoln - Republican Dandy in a Bow Tie

Lincoln - Republican Dandy in a Bow Tie

Roosevelt - Democrat Dandy in a Bow Tie

Roosevelt - Democrat Dandy in a Bow Tie

and of course one could go on and on with men of distinction who donned the bow tie with great effect. We shall leave that topic for another delightful time.

Historically the bow tie settled into the gentleman’s wardrobe in the late Victorian era. The above examples of Disraeli and Lincoln demonstrate some of the earliest forms of bow ties. You can see the connection to the earlier cravats and where the bow tie is about to emerge.

And thank goodness it did! The bow tie has become the pinnacle of fashion for the neck. The gentleman both wears the bow tie in the most formal setting as well as being the pride of the Dandy. They come in silk for the elegant touch and they come in cotton for common touch. Andre Benjamin, help me out here. First, show me the sophisticated formality of the bow tie:

Andre Benjamin Demonstrates the Formal Cool of the Bow TIe

Andre Benjamin Demonstrates the Formal Cool of the Bow TIe

Great! Now, how about the steamy swingin’ look?

Andre Benjamin Demonstrates the Swingin' Heat of the Bow TIe

Andre Benjamin Demonstrates the Swingin' Heat of the Bow TIe

Thank-you, and fabulous use of the straw hat!

Still in doubt about the awesomeness that is the simple bow tie? I refer you to this image of how regal the bow tie makes the gentleman look in the past and present:

Edwardian Gentleman with Bow Tie and Top Hat

Edwardian Gentleman with Bow Tie and Top Hat

from the dignity the bow tie bestows on the Edwardian gentleman to the suave mantle of ultimate cool for Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra.

Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra in Bow Ties and Delicate Mayhem

Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra in Bow Ties and Delicate Mayhem

Should there still be any foolish debate left, I present how the bow tie works equally well with decorating the female sex with sexy elegance,

Josephine Baker in White Bow Tie Looking Delicious

Josephine Baker in White Bow Tie Looking Delicious

Amber Heard, Naturi Naughton and Leah Renee as Playboy Club Bunny Hostesses

Amber Heard, Naturi Naughton and Leah Renee as Playboy Club Bunny Hostesses

And they even work their magic untied on the opposite sex, perhaps even better than when on a gentleman,

Kate Moss Looking Sexy with an Untied Bow Tie

Kate Moss Looking Sexy with an Untied Bow Tie

Thank-you Kate Moss (and I still need that tie back. Seriously.).

There you have a brief introduction to the bow tie and why you should start wearing them. Stay tuned for instructions on how to tie your own…

Gentlemen’s Cravats – A Brief History

Before the modern necktie there was a period in mens fashion where we wore ruffs around our collars.

Gentleman Soldier Wearing a Ruff Collar

Gentleman Soldier Wearing a Ruff Collar

These were all the fashion for men (and women) of distinction from the mid-sixteenth century to the mid-seventeenth century. It took introducing a neck cloth used by Croatian soldiers to get us to where we are today.

Croat Mercenary with Red Neck Scarf - 17th Century

Croat Mercenary Action Figure with Red Neck Scarf - 17th Century

It is easy to imagine a French officer on a battlefield in Europe feeling stifled and put upon by his stiff, starched linen ruff. In all his bother he spied a Croatian officer with the elegant and much less restrictive silk neck cloth wrapped in a much more casual manner around the neck. On his next leave to the city of Paris this officer thought to himself, “Ah-ha!” and he ditched his ruff and tied a length of silk around his neck. Gone was the chaffing and, more importantly, he could lean in close to his petite Parisian chouchou now that his neck was clear. (Maybe this is where the term ‘necking’ first originated, when men went from the uber-formal ruff to the uber-gallant silk neck cloth.)

In any case, he is very pleased with the reaction to his new neck cloth, and soon his fellow officers have donned this new neck wear, now called a ‘cravat’, a bastardization of the French word Croat. A new era is born and embraced by gentlemen across Europe.

Gentleman with a Silk Tied Silk Neck Scarf - The Cravat

Gentleman with a Silk Tied Neck Scarf - The Cravat

There were seemingly endless variations with which men could tie their silk and cotton cravats, thanks in no small manner to Beau Brummell and the rise of the Dandy as a masculine style reaction to the Macaroni.

Illustration From "Neckclothitania" (published by J.J. Stockdale, Sept. 1st. 1818)

Illustration From "Neckclothitania" (published by J.J. Stockdale, Sept. 1st. 1818)

These variations evolved to use patterns and colours to enhance a gentleman’s appearance and outfit. Beginning in the Victorian era the cravat developed into the stylized forms we know and love today: ascots, bow ties, string ties and neck ties. But more on those later…

Collars – Not Just for Hiding Bite Marks

The Club Collar

The Club Collar

This shot of a gent in a club collar from the Sartorialist demonstrates how the cut of a collar can project an entirely different presence for a gentleman. the simple choice of a different collar can breath new life into a gentleman’s wardrobe.